Making Trousers for Men & Women by David Coffin

By David Coffin

Cozy, flattering pants should be hard to make--but they're extraordinary to put on. during this publication, David Coffin offers his artistic, sure-fire tools for buying it correct.

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They also have no time to trim down allowances on cut edges, and they can keep track of which seams have which seam-allowance widths if some are different or have outlets. Most important, professional sewers rarely use a cut edge to tell them where the seam line is. In their world, there’s often no obvious connection between the shape of the edge and the shape and position of a nearby seam; and, if there’s any chance of confusion, they won’t hesitate to chalk- or thread-mark the seam line. 6 cm) inside any cut edge.

Armed with an abundance of materials, I can resist letting any fear of waste or delay trump my fear of making a possibly fatal mistake in a finished piece. I’ve also often whipped out a square or two of fresh paper towel to stitch or staple into a quick, disposable proof of a concept. ) I’ll comment on similar sequencing issues and point out other ways to keep options open in all the construction discussions throughout the book. That said, the first thing I do with my cut-out pant pieces is to overcast-stitch the edges with a wide, long, zigzag stitch, as shown in the drawing on the facing page.

INTERFACINGS I use fusible interfacing in four different ways. Fortunately, there are at least four currently available fusible interfacings that serve these various needs perfectly. I’ve tried and liked the Perfect Fuse offerings from Palmer/ Pletsch, but there are definitely others. Purpose 1: When I need straight-grain stability in some area where my outer fabric is more or less on bias—typically at a pocket mouth. Whether it’s an on-seam pocket opening or a welt opening in the middle of a piece, I’ll usually add a rectangle of thin woven, knit, or weft-insertion interfacing centered over the opening, with the stable direction of the interfacing parallel to the pocket mouth.

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